Frequently Asked Questions

Quick answers to the questions our team hears every week. If yours isn't here, message us — a real human will reply.

Sizing & planning

How do I size a floor heating system?

Measure only the open, walkable floor area where heat is wanted — not under cabinets, vanities, tubs or fixtures. Subtract about 10% for layout losses, then choose a kit slightly larger than your remaining number. If you need help, send us a sketch and we'll size it for you.

Cable kit vs. mat kit — which should I buy?

Mats are faster on simple rectangular rooms. Loose cable on uncoupling membrane is more flexible for irregular layouts, niches and around obstacles. Both heat the same — choose by room shape and your comfort with layout.

Will radiant heat warm a whole room?

In well-insulated bathrooms and kitchens, yes — radiant floor often replaces the primary heat source. In larger or poorly insulated rooms, it's most reliable as supplemental warmth that takes the chill off the floor and lets you run your forced-air system at a lower setpoint.

Installation

Do I need an electrician?

For final 120V or 240V connections at the thermostat or controller, yes — and we strongly recommend one for any snow melt or commercial system. Cable layout and membrane installation can be done by tile-savvy DIYers.

Can I install over a wood subfloor?

Yes, with the right uncoupling membrane to decouple tile from substrate movement. Every cable kit we sell ships with the membrane sized for it.

How long does an install take?

A typical 60–80 sq ft bathroom floor: one full day for membrane and cable, plus one day for tile. Driveway snow melt: a half day to lay mats and tie them in before the pour.

Operating cost & control

Is radiant floor expensive to run?

For most bathrooms and kitchens running on a smart schedule, expect about 3–8 cents per square foot per day during winter — far less than people assume. Snow melt operates only when sensors detect both moisture and freezing.